2009 Chardonnay, Split Rock Vineyard

Gap's Crown (Mendecino County)

2009 marked our first attempt at Chardonnay, a varietal that can vary greatly in style and quality depending both on the growing conditions in the vineyard and the skill and techniques used in the winery. In Fall 2010, we introduced our first ever Chardonnay from Haas Vineyard in Lamorinda (still a few bottles left if you act quickly!), which exhibited a riper, richer style. With this release, we are extremely proud to introduce a very different Chardonnay from the same vintage, grown in the cool, fog-shrouded hills west of Petaluma. Near the peak of this range is a vineyard known as Gap's Crown and at its heart is a small, boulder-pocked, densely planted block designated as Split Rock. In these rocky soils, the wind-swept Chardonnay vines (clones 95 and 76) are known for producing consistently great fruit resulting in wines with great complexity, concentration, and natural acidity.

When we heard we could get our hands on some of this fruit, my intent was to recreate the closest resemblance to a White Burgundy as possible from California fruit. I studied the various yeast strains, fermentation and aging techniques, and oak alternatives employed by the finest Domaines in the Cote d'Or.

The resulting wine, fermented and aged sur lie in a new French oak barrel, has turned out to be everything I hoped for, comparable to premiere crus I've tasted from Meursault, though with a distinct California bent. In the glass, a beautiful golden hue glows with almost a hint of chartreuse on the edge. The nose is big and expressive, with aromas of honey and Granny Smith apple emanating from the glass, accented by notes of quince, fig and a distinctive essence of hazelnut, tinged by an edge of mineral/flintiness.

Upon entry, this wine entices the palate with lively, refreshing acidity, which softens and evolves to produce a rich, creamy, almost buttery mouthfeel. Layers of fruit unfold, unveiling flavors of white peach and pear leading to a pleasantly warm lingering vanillin finish.