2008 'Ancient Vines' Mourvedre

Evangelho Vineyard Contra Costa County

In 2008, for the fourth straight year, we were fortunate enough to be able to procure grapes from the sweetest area of Frank Evangelho's gnarled ancient vines in Oakley. This year, the fruit again came in characteristically ripe and rich. While our 2007 version was blended with 40% fruit from our estate vineyard, the 2008 contains all old-vine Evangelho fruit and is pure decadence.

In the glass, this wine has a deep, glass-staining red-violet hue. The nose is rich with brambly berry pie and sweet, creamy aromas of plum, allspice and a hint of game, earth and anise, typical of the Mourvedre varietal. The distinctive Evangelho characteristics of pencil lead and black pepper scents are present, but relatively veiled in the background compared to the deep dark concentrated fruit. On the palate, you're greeted with immense, mouth-coating flavors of ripe strawberry, plum and black raspberry. This wine might be viewed as an antithesis to our Petit Verdot – if you like bigger, jammier, fruitier wines, you'll love this one. Though its weight is substantial, the wine's bracing acidity -- normal for Mourvedre -- helps balance the high-octane alcohol level and resulting sensation of sweetness, preventing it from feeling overbearingly viscous. The power and muscularity of the wine extends into the long-lasting finish, with a tannic structure that suggests this wine should be enjoyed with food.

Pair this wine with grilled meats or with a marinated pork tenderloin with a coarse black pepper crust, or try it today as a pleasurable accompaniment to dark chocolate. It can be enjoyed young with sufficient aeration, and will age gracefully for 5 or more years to come -- if you can wait that long to enjoy it!