2008 'Ancient Vines' Carignane, Evangelho Vineyard

Contra Costa County

Given diminished yields in 2008, we weren't sure we would be able to get Carignane fruit from Frank Evangelho's 120-year-old vineyard growing in the sand and dry farmed out in Oakley (Eastern Contra Costa County), but thankfully, good luck shined on us. Though it is the most widely planted varietal in all of France (primarily in the Languedoc-Rousillon and Provence regions of the South) Carignane is not commonly found as a standalone, varietal-designated bottling; instead, it is usually used as a blending component in Spanish and Rhone wines, and in California Zinfandels. However, there are a few great examples of Carignane bottlings around, particularly when a winery can find very old vines farmed to produce very limited yields. We have been bottling the Evangelho Carignane since 2006 and are continually delighted with the results.

This year's version displays particularly intense floral aromas of candied cherry, sweet tobacco, and rhubarb pie. This is definitely a big wine, but on the palate, bright acidity helps balance the huge expansion of flavors, including ripe, concentrated Santa Rosa Plum and red licorice. The alcohol level, while relatively high (14.7%), is kept in check by the substantial fruit and does not leave an impression of heat or heavy viscosity, but instead, a smooth, richly enjoyable finish. The tannic structure, while clearly evident, is not overwhelming, allowing this wine to be enjoyable now (with proper aeration) as well as over the next 12-15 years with proper storage. We envision this wine w/ a grilled hangar steak or ribs with a black peppercorn and raspberry marinade, or enjoy it today with a sharp, relatively pungent cheese.