2006 Merlot, Tristant Vineyard

Napa Valley

In 2006, we began to notice the "Sideways" phenomenon affecting the market for Merlot grapes. Unfairly admonished by Miles as an inferior grape varietal (though ironically cherished in his bottle of 1961 Cheval Blanc), the reality was that Merlot's unheralded mass-market success led to an over-abundance of mediocre wine, produced from grapes grown in regions not well-suited for high quality Merlot. Triggered by the popular film, the market for Merlot wine sank precipitously and as a result, many wineries dropped long-term contracts with growers who had been producing consistently outstanding fruit for years.

We were the fortunate beneficiaries of this course of events when we were introduced to Bill Tristant by our friend Tom Morehouse. Bill owns a small 7-acre plot of Merlot in southern Calistoga, bordered by the confluence of Ritchie Creek and the Napa River and just West of the bridge to Silverado Trail. For years, the Tristants' fruit had served as a backbone of Markham Vineyards' Reserve Merlot program, but in 2006, several tons became available. Our friend Steve Robinson and I loaded up the cargo van and picked over 1500 lbs, giving us enough juice to make nearly two full barrels of classic Napa Valley Merlot.

The wine appears rich crimson in color with a powerful, dark cherry nose tinged by the typical Napa Valley 'dust' and a hint of bell pepper and smoky white pepper. On the palate, the flavors are initially a little restrained on the entry, but open up on the mid-palate into a muscular array of cherry and dark plum framed by a dash of herbal tea leaves and cocoa powder. The finish reveals a layer of chocolate and a solid tannic structure suggesting that, although this wine drinks well now, it will continue to soften and develop rich flavorful nuances with age. Try this wine with barbeque brisket or a rich veal stew. Approachable now with aeration time, this wine will continue to soften and evolve over time, ensuring its enjoyment for at least the next 5-7 years.