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2009 Jessalyn's Joie de Vivre, Alder Springs VineyardMendocino CountyI had always wanted to make a white Rhone-style blend using the great aromatics and richness of Roussanne combined with and the mineral and acidic edge of Marsanne as they do in the great white wines from Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage. When I had the opportunity to procure fruit from the famed Alder Springs Vineyard in the high elevations of Mendocino County, I had to jump at the opportunity, even if more costly than most other grapes we've purchased in the past. For those of you unfamiliar with the grape, Marsanne is one of the classic Rhône varietals, and it produces wines with distinct melon and mineral flavors, and rich mouthfeel. When blended, its rich melon characteristics complement more aromatic varietals like Roussanne. Marsanne is a light straw color, almost green, with moderate acidity and excellent mid-palate richness. Its mineral flavors and aromas make it an ideal blending grape. The varietal has been historically blended with Roussanne, where it tones down the viscosity of the Roussanne and provides a more complex flavor. Wines made from Roussanne are rich and complex, with distinct honey, floral and apricot flavors. The aromatics are intoxicating, and although many attempts in California to vinify Roussanne have resulted in unctuous, syrupy, high-alcohol, sweet-tasting wines, when grown at higher elevations and maintained meticulously in the vineyard, the varietal can produce some astoundingly delightful wines with rich, intricate flavors and an always ethereal nose, but without being overly cloying. When faced with the decision of naming one of our wines for each of our children, I felt no hesitancy singling out this wine for Jessalyn – it epitomizes her boundless energy combined with her thoughtful, well-rounded, ever-inquisitive approach to life, which we hope will ultimately be no better articulated than by the French expression "Joie de Vivre" or joy of life. This wine is bottled unfiltered and unfined to preserve all the richness and depth of character the fruit has to offer. It was aged and fermented in a combination of neutral French Oak and stainless steel (about 75/25), which also contributes to the fruit's complexity and intense concentration. In the glass, it appears light golden with fair but not crystal clarity. The nose is simply an elixir, filled with Babcock Peaches and cream, honey, and fresh flower blossoms. Upon entering the palate, flavors evolve to reveal notes of melon and apples, with a creamy tropical layer emerging on the midpalate, leading to a soft, opulent but clean and lengthy finish accented by a dash of pleasant spice. This wine would make a wonderful pairing with lightly fried crabcakes, possibly with a Cajun Remoulade sauce if you're feeling intrepid (or if like us you're a fan of "Treme"). To enjoy the freshness and voluptuousness of the fruit, you'll want to drink this wine in the next year or two, but for the curious and the patient, the minerality and acidity in this wine could make it an excellent candidate for aging 5 years +. I hope to save a bottle for Jess' 21st Birthday. Enjoy life! Enjoy this wine! |
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